Cymbals

Cymbals. How to choose!

Manufacture:

Cymbals are made of metal alloys – there are four main types of alloy with combinations of tin and copper; zinc and copper and copper and nickel – there are special “secret alloys” too. In the manufacture of these cymbals they can be pressed out of sheets of metal (and machine-hammered – controlled by computer) or hand produced and hand-hammered. Hand hammering means that a craftsman has carefully hammered the cymbal to give it its unique sound (and balance).

Which type?

The things to remember and consider when buying a cymbal are:

What sound do you want – what is its role?

From this –

What size diameter?

What size bell?

Sounds:

Drummers may have/own many kits and change kits fairly often but once they have found the cymbals they love they don’t tend to part with them. Most of the cymbals I have (“had” – my drum kit and cymbals were stolen – see future article/blog!) are over twenty-five years old. The main cymbals you’ll need – in order, are (probably!):

Hi-hats

Ride

Crash

Other

Hi-hats:

Hi-hat cymbals (a balanced pair) fulfil two functions – they can be played by a stick (with that famous psss sound achieved by opening the hi-hats at the same time as striking with a stick) or by opening and closing with the left (or right!) foot. The latter keeps time (as a jazz drummer I also use my left foot to clash the hi-hats together to create a crash effect).

There is a real difference and quality of sound between heavy and thin hi-hat cymbals and cheap varieties can sound dull, lifeless and “soak up” energy. Too heavy hi-hats can make it harder to keep time with your foot. I (used to) use Paiste (404) hi-hats and was very happy with them – they’ve been replaced by heavier Sabian AAX 14” Stage Hats; whereas the Paiste were ultra responsive the Sabian aren’t as quite – but they are much more suited to heavier rock. The Paiste sounded good for rock (using the neck or shaft of the stick) and great for jazz (though for most of their life they didn’t get used for jazz at all). Unfortunately Paiste 404s can only be bought second-hand. I’d recommend either types of these hi-hats and I’ve used the Sabians for jazz gigs without them being over-bearing – great left foot “click” too!

Ride:

Ride cymbals (like all) come in different sizes (from 19ins to around 24ins diameter). What is needed with a ride is a clear stick sound and a lack of “built up” sound as you play. If sound does build up the rhythmic tick of your beat will eventually be drowned out. A clear bell tone is also useful as this gives a rhythmic alternative – having said this some rides come without a bell at all. (The “bell” of a cymbal is the raised central part – through which the cymbal is attached to a stand.)

Sometimes a ride cymbal is required that gives a continual sustained sound and jazz drummers (including Mitch Mitchell of the Jimi Hendrix Experience) might use a “sizzle” which is (usually) a ride cymbal with rivets driven into it! A similar effect can be used for rock drumming by playing a crash cymbal as a “ride”.

I use a Zildjian (20 inch) ride – the greater the circumference the clearer and stronger the ride’s sound – although it is quality of manufacture and alloy that gives the best tone. Zildjians were made in Turkey and the USA; Custom and K Zildjian are made exclusively in the USA – mine is hand-hammered and you can see the dents! I now have another Zildjian – a 20” K (Custom dark ride) that is quite beautiful! Sabian now produce hand-hammered cymbals. (Istanbul makes cymbals similar to the Turkish Zildjians of old.)

Crash:

A crash is as it sounds – staccato but with some resonance. If you “crash” a ride cymbal the effect is lacking in impact and the sound continues for some time. A good crash is strong, powerful and without too much delay. It is a punctuation mark in the music – a beginning or an end. I (used to!) have two Paiste 18 inch crashes (404s) that were beautiful in tone. I also had a really cheap, nasty crash (of unknown manufacture) that I used as a different ride sound (it has no quality of sound but taps out a precise beat and contrasts well with the warmth of my Zildjian). If I were to crash this crash! – it would sound like a dustbin lid.

My replacements for the crashes of old are: A - K Zildjian medium thin 16” which I pair with an Avedis Zildjian 18” – I like two main crashes that compliment each other and give contrasting tones; especially nice for those rapid double crashes.

The size of the bell (as with all cymbals), will also affect the sound of the crash. These bells can also be used to “ride” the beat and for percussive colour.

Others:

Effect cymbals.

Apart from the basic set-up of a pair of hi-hat cymbals, a ride and a couple of crash cymbals there are other so-called effect cymbals. These cymbals offer extra “colour” to your range of sounds and include:

Splash – a small cymbal that sounds like a 1920s jazz-type crash. (I use a Zildjian 8”.)

China – these are used as both an alternative ride sound or as a crash (imagine a crash cymbal in an oriental drama).

Crash/Ride – a combination (not usually successful) of the qualities of both types of cymbal.

Sizzle - (see above)

And many others with different circumferences, thickness of metal, size of bell (including some that are just the bell! And some without a bell!) and quality of sound. I’ve just got a great range of cymbals that I haven’t yet incorporated into my kit – more later on these when I practice with them and play them live…

Manufactures:

In my opinion the best cymbals are produced by Zildjian, Paiste (making a comeback), Sabian and Meinl. All cymbal manufacturers carry a range of cymbal types to cater for the kinds of sounds you need for the music you play. Heavily hammered cymbals such as Zildjian K Customs give a dark sound compared with the bright As and A customs and are ideal for rock playing. There are also other cheaper cymbals available. A cheap cymbal CAN sound good just as an expensive cymbal CAN sound bad. There is little alternative but to try cymbals out until you get the one with the sound YOU prefer. But see below…

Buying blind (or rather deaf):

If you have to buy your cymbals from the internet then do as much research beforehand as possible. Go into your local music shop and get a “feeling” for the type and make of cymbal you want – play your friends’ cymbals. Ask drummers at gigs which cymbals they prefer – listen to those drummers’ cymbals. Go on websites that discuss these matters and show the kits and cymbals your favourite drummers use. The more research you do the more likely you’ll buy a cymbal that sounds good. BUT – even if your favourite drummer plays such and such cymbal, that doesn’t mean that is the cymbal for you. A cymbal adds colour, texture and a variety of musical sounds that contrast and highlight the sounds of your drums – a drummer is a musician and needs to choose his/her sounds carefully. Your technique and musicianship will be affected by the quality and sounds of the drums and cymbals YOU choose.

Ideally – go to your local (or not so local) drum shop, play the cymbals there and buy there – without drum/music shops all cymbals will be bought second-hand or over the internet. I don’t know about you but I love hanging out at drum shops (when I get the chance) – and there’s usually drummers there that want to help you get the best sound you can for your money.

Cheers – Good luck!